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I’m repairing some damaged capacitors on windshield switch for an old Toyota (1985 Toyota MR2). The problem is the “intermittent” setting doesn’t work and when I probe the capacitors with my DVOM I get a few nanofarads or nothing.
I can do some basic soldering and wiring on 12V systems, but I’m not sure about what’s important for capacitors as far as ordering replacements.
I have three capacitors that I want to replace. I’m going to put down everything that’s written on them. Hopefully someone can tell me what some high quality parts would be to replace them.
C1
47 uF
16V
BP CE (with a triangle above the CE)
85 deg C
S
Japan
C2
10uF 50V
– CE (with a triangle above the CE)
SS +85degC
C3
33uF 16V
– CE (with a triangle above the CE)
SS +85degC
I know the uF is microfarads and the 85deg C is the temp, but not sure what the tolerance class. All of them are blue in color. I can send photos if it helps. If someone can recommend me PNs that would be a big help!
If the tolerance is not listed on the original capacitor, then I am not sure how to confirm its tolerance, but I would recommend choosing the option with a tighter tolerance around the same price range just to be safe. I don’t believe you need one with an expensively high tolerance for your application.
As @APDahlen says, almost all aluminum electrolytic caps are +/-20%, and because of how they’re used within a circuit, getting the value exactly right is rarely important. Therefore, it’s pretty much a non-issue for you.
Since this is an automotive application, I would focus on parts with an automotive rating, as they tend to be better over a wide temperature range, have longer life ratings, and can often handle vibration better.
That narrows it down to this list. From here, look for parts that will physically fit your board(s), noting that it is just fine to select a higher rated voltage part if it still fits. The higher voltage rating will just add a bit of insurance and will often extend the life because it will be operating further below its maximum value.
From there, assuming you have more than one option, look for parts with higher temperature ratings and/or longer “Lifetime at Temperature” specs. Make note that for every 10°C lower the part operates compared to its max temperature, the lifetime will double. So, for example, a part rated for 3000 hrs at 125°C will typically last 6000 hrs at 115°C and 12,000 hrs at 105°C and so on.
