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I have an audio application with subwoofers with power handling on the higher side of things, so I want to get the right ring terminals.
The terminal block on the subwoofer is a #6 stud, the width of the opening on the terminal is just under 0.5" (15/32nds), and the gauge of the wire I am using is 12 AWG. The peak power will be around 2,500W, so that is around 48A @ a little over 50V. I will actually use two conductors to get an effective 9 AWG wire gauge and just stack the two ring connectors in the terminal block.
I want to maximize the width, area, and thickness of the ring, which is a little difficult because that makes for an odd combination using a #6 stud. I am not opposed to going to something made for a larger stud such as #8 if it means I could get more surface and cross-sectional area.
Preferred material is copper with nickel, gold, or silver plating.
I also looked at some with a #8 stud but they tend to be the same width, so that would be less surface area, but some a slightly thicker.
My questions are:
Would this be a good candidate for this application? I see some rings are made for high temperature or other applications, is there a type made for audio applications like mine? If anyone can recommend something I would appreciate it.
Crimping tools - are there less expensive crimping tools that can get the job done? I only have a few dozen of these connections to make, I can’t really see buying a tool in the $500-$1,000+ range. Is it as simple as getting a generic crimping tool that is just meant for the correct wire gauge? I am looking for a $50-$125 tool maybe, if that is possible.
While there aren’t specific ring terminals marketed exclusively for audio applications, it’s important to focus on the necessary specifications like stud size, wire AWG, dimensions, and terminal material. The 323060 appears to be a promising option for your application. However, please note that the datasheet doesn’t explicitly list a current rating for this ring terminal.
For a general-purpose crimp tool, I’d suggested Klein Tools # 3005CR. Please read over the datasheet before ordering.
Yes, I noticed that in most cases these parts don’t list a current rating. I can probably take some of the fork parts and other ring parts that do have a rating and estimate it for one’s that don’t.
Thank you for the link to the crimping tool. Is there a different tool made for uninsulated crimp connectors? Also, I saw some crimp tools that actually stamp a hole right into the crimp rather than just compress it, is that important?
Actually I think it would technically be a “2-141-Y” because according to the datasheet that is the one with a 6-32 screw: ds-ccs-ind-barrier-blocks-142-series.pdf
I don’t know if that helps with the recommendation.
Yeah, looks like the ones in 141 series of those terminal blocks have the 6-32 screw size so you’ll need a ring terminal of stud size 6.
Typically speaking the crimp tool is usually specific to a series of contacts/ring terminals so depending what terminal you pick, insulated or not, it may require a different crimp tool.
Assuming you have accurately identified your terminal block as the “2-141-Y”, your attempt to maximize current may be ill-advised. According to the datasheet for that part, it is rated for a maximum of only 20A.
On the other hand, it is not clear whether the terminal block max current rating is a steady-state value or a peak value. If the latter, then you might be OK as long as your average value is under 20A.
Yes, exactly, I talked with the manufacturer of the subs, and they told me “Find the largest and heaviest connectors you can to minimize resistance”. The amplifier is technically capable of sustained high current, but in reality, program material would only call for current in excess of 48A for less than a second at a time. The steady state will be well below 20A.
So, the load is divided between multiple drivers, the amplifier has much larger terminals so I can use even heavier connectors there. Still have to decide on the connectors on that side.
I showed the rep my connectors, he said they looked fine, but the crimp needs to be good, so I need to find a connector-crimp tool combination that matches. Unfortunately, some of these crimp tools like the one’s from Tyco can be $1,000+ which is silly. He said you want to the crimp to be strong enough for a gas-tight connection.
I think the solution to this might be following the gauge rating for the crimp tool, like the ones that are color-coded.
I have several of these subwoofer arrays to build out, so it is worth spending the time to get it right.
I can not attest to personally using it, but the following ratcheting crimp tool and die-set combination seems like a decent option, and is well within your budget range.
Regarding just soldering, I wouldn’t recommend it. Crimping will give a more robust contact, particularly in a high vibration environment. Adding solder to a crimp would probably be fine, though a good crimp is the most important part.
Yes. See below:
The image below comes from pdf page 37 the Tempo Communications catalog (owner of the Paladin brand of tools). That section shows all crimp die options available for the 1300 and 8000 series crimp tools. See this catalog link for a complete list crimp dies available for them.
