Halogen to LED retrofit. Proper transformer?

Power Power Supplies (off-board)
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21

Not at the lamps, no; the purpose of the rectifier internal to the lamps is to make polarity of applied voltage irrelevant, because it changes 60 times a second when operated from an AC source.

These have a similar form factor and higher output capacity, and I suspect you’d end up needing a triple-width junction box to comfortably accommodate their size. Having the gozinta and gozouta on opposite ends would appear convenient for the splice-in installation approach, though these lack the adjustment feature found on the “silver box” style.

Not with this approach, no. My opinion is that dimming is best left out of the picture in retrofit situations. If one’s replacing fixtures or starting from scratch, the prospects are somewhat brighter…

Good luck with the project, eh.

22

I knew it. Canadian, eh.

Thanks much.

I’ll send a report from the hotel if I burn the place down.

23

Hi Rick. Sad news. So far, no photons at the pot lights.

Wired a gizmo into line for one lamp set. It put out a nice 12v.

But …

No v all the way down the line. So far my hypothesis, so far, is line loss.

More experiments to follow tomorrow. Tired.

Must cheer on my Blue Jays against the hated Bosox. And watch Nova.

Just watching the Red Arrow, high speed train in Italy. Very nice.

24

Raptors as well.

25

More likely a connection issue. With no current flow, one should see the same voltage at the end of the hose as at the input.

Check for stupids. Like the outlets in the guest bedroom suddenly being supplied with 12VDC. Electricity is hard because none of one’s five senses are generally worth a bleep in dealing with the stuff unless things are going very, very wrong…

26

I’m going to the test bench to work on making the components work with eachother away from where the stupids usually happen - in reality… It’s like a mystery, or an experiment.

First big glitch - I’ve broken the leads to my multi-meter. With COVID lock-down restrictions, picking up one is a pain.

Are we sure that the MR16 will take and use DC?

They work on AC at 12 volts.

Anyway, I do not give up easily.

Something will work.

May I continue to pester you on occasion, please?

27

Just a little thing. The gizmo has incoming connections marked AC ln and AC n.

I’m assuming that’s “line” and “neutral”. Also assuming that’s black and white respectively from my domestic circuit.

Also assuming that, for my purposes, other side, output, indicating “+” and “-”, don’t matter, as far as the pins on the MR16 bulb.

Am I correct?

I have tested the output of the gizmo I started to use, with a 12 volt battery tester for which I do have leads, showing full charge at the said 12 volts. Gizmos work.

Thx.