Rick. Hi again. I’m sure I’ve become a total pain in the ass. Sorry.
I’ve been taking notes. LONG time since my undergrad physics and chemistry days. They had barely invented the transistor back then. Pluto was still a planet. A buck was still worth a buck.
So, are you saying that I can feed my light bulbs direct current notwithstanding that they, presumably, have, internally in the housing, a rectifier to do that, along with all the other “stuff” required by the various real LED units in the “bulb”?
Now, to be clear. The pot lights I’m dealing with were never incandescent fixtures. Halogen. MR16, 2-pin spotlights. Little hot bastards. Now banned in Europe, and soon to be gone here I assume.
What I’m working on now are two separate sets of pots, one switch each, where the old magnetic transformers have “blown”, kaput, dead. I connected with their manufacturer in Montreal who said they were not suitable for LED. He’s gotta know. But, I want to “fix” these first, so am experimenting with this scheme to avoid, if possible, replacing each and every old magnetic transformer with an electronic ballast, one by one.
I plan to put the device, a new electronic ballast, AFTER the switch and in the line to the set of three bulbs. I have abandoned the concept of dimming.
Now, DC transmission is more efficient over long distances than AC, so I may avoid some line loss, yes? But, if the MR16 bulbs have a rectifier already, I don’t want to confuse them.
I see several units in your product list that put out 12, 13.5, and 15 volts DC and wonder if they might work, downstream of the switch, and with enough extra juice to light the bulbs with suitable power.
RSP-320-13.5 for example. I assume it’s electronic. The literature doesn’t say, but it doesn’t LOOK magnetic.
Otherwise I just find an electronic ballast, output 12 or 13.5 volt AC and let the bulbs do what they need to do. Like the Hatch, which you don’t carry.
And you’re right. This is a patch, a hack, an experiment. Thinking it can’t set the house on fire, and if it works, so much the better.
I had hoped to find a device that was cheaper, but sometimes when you go “cheap”, you get “CHEAP”.
If you could set me straight on the DC or AC thing, that would save me some confusion.
I’ll leave you alone after this. I KNOW you have better, and more profitable, things to do.