I want to make a long usb cable usb A on one end and micro USB b on the other end. What about using cat 6 wire. solder Adafruit 1387 and Adafruit 1390 on the other end.
is this cost effective and bulletproof?
| Digi-Key Part Number | 1528-1182-ND | |
|---|---|---|
| Manufacturer | ## Adafruit Industries LLC | |
| Manufacturer Part Number | 1390 | |
| Description | CONN PLUG MICRO USB B 5POS SLDR | |
| Detailed Description | ### USB - micro B Plug Connector 5 Position Free Hanging (In-Line) |
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Depending on your concept of “long” and intended use, the approach may or may not be viable. USB specifications provide for a maximum 5 meter cable length, depending on whether you’re after 1.x, 2.x, or 3.x speeds. Cat6 cable materials of the sort generally used in Ethernet applications are designed with different concerns in mind, and are generally not well adapted for USB applications.
In general, if a USB cable of a desired character is not commercially available, one does not stand a high chance of being able to fabricate one that would provide the desired service.
Rick, I should give you the whole technical problem.
Let me explain better:
2 problems really, both dealing with powering Video Surveillance Cameras.
I would like the solutions to be cost effective and bulletproof.
My Swann Video Surveillance Cameras use 12V 1A. The wire needs to be tipped with 2.1mm female at one end and 2.1mm male at the other. I would like to use a DC Power lead with Positive and Negative wires and use butt connectors, crimped or soldered. I would like to use the 18/2 wires on an RG59 as the power carrier.
In the 2nd case my Wyze Cam uses 5V 1A DC power through a micro USB port. I would like to solder USB A male to one end of a Cat 6 wire and USB micro B male to the other end .
Can you recommend products for these problems?
For purposes of transmitting small amounts of DC power as you mention, just about anything down to a rusty coat hanger can usually be made to work, so long as you’re not trying to transfer data over the same cable. The smaller the conductor diameter the higher the losses encountered over long runs, and at some point for a given piece of equipment, those losses become unworkable. Where exactly that point is for your equipment, I can’t say.
Free-hanging barrel connectors on hand with a 2.1mm ID are here, and the two Adafruit products you mentioned would seem adequate for the other case. As for your thoughts on choices of cable material, those wouldn’t necessarily be my first choices as they’re relatively expensive/overkill for the task. But if you’re working with materials at hand, go ahead and give them a try…
rick that was good.
what wire would you use?
I am starting from scratch.
mike
C 330-808-0690
E yeagmichael@me.com
A 1953 Conwill Rd. Apt. 2 Stow, OH 44224
Something cheap with two conductors, to which the connectors of interest could reasonably be applied. Perhaps something like this
Honestly though, Power over Ethernet is the way to go…
If the cable carrying the 5V for the USB powered camera is more than few meters long the voltage drop may cause problems.
Assuming:
The camera draws 1A max and needs a minimum of 4.75V (USB Vmin spec)
The power supply puts out 5.2V @ 1A (just on the safe side of USB Vmax spec)
Then 5 meters of 22 AWG wire may be a problem. (5m, 22 AWG @ 1A drops > 0.5V)
22 AWG wire is 52.96 mΩ/m
5 m loop resistance = (52.96 * 2 * 5) / 1000 = 0.53 Ω
1 A * 0.53 Ω = 0.53 V
For other wire gaiges you can get the mΩ/m value here:
thank you. that was valuable.
