Hello. The source of my present days headache lies down on a Samsung PCB AH41-01755A, which is an amp board for a Samsung HW-j7500 Subwoofer. It bears a JKOU mark on it. I cannot find what it is. Low voltage regulator? Linear? Non linear? NPN? PNP? No idea.
Any help will be greatly appreciated. Thanks in advance.
Hello,
Welcome to the TechForum!
We are taking a look at this question and will get back as soon as we can.
Thank you
Ryan
Hi David. I am not interested in the TAS56. That IC is alright. I have pointed to a different part, at the end of the black arrow.
Hi Coman,
Welcome to the TechForum.
I already realized that, that is why post was removed 15 hours ago before your feedback. Are you still seeing my post?
See above: (post deleted by author)
I will get back to you later. Have a nice day!
Sorry it was on my email. Replying put it right here.
Hi Coman:
Please look for the Samsung Wireless Receiver SWA-7000 service PDF manual (Not the user manual) in there, look for the schematic diagram and find the corresponding component in the BOM/PART LIST or the schematic itself with the REF DES. On a first attempt, I was able to find the service PDF manual on the internet for the SWA-5000 but didn’t have any luck with the service manual of your SWA-7000, I cannot go further than that since there are ethical proprietary aspects here. Maybe you can find it or request it from the manufacturer if possible, good luck.
Regards,
David
Hello @coman.g.bogdan,
There is a possibility that this is a dual Zener Diode in the BZX84 family. As an example, consider this Comchip device.
Unfortunately, I’m unable to provide solid justification beyond the fact that the marking does include JK. It is entirely possible that I’m out in left field.
My hope is that this clue will fit with what you see as part of your troubleshooting.
Happy soldering,
APDahlen
You should get the schematic like I stated in Samsung Wireless Receiver SWA-7000 service PDF manual, this will help you understand the specific system too, understand the impact on your effort, also in case other related components in the future fail too, please don’t rely on guessing.
Have a nice day!
Hi Conan
One important question to clarify it, what is the objective and purpose of your effort, is it only for educational purposes only or you are trying to fix it since it does not “work”? how did you determined that is the defective component in this system? what methodology did you use for this effort? Are you 100% sure that there might not be other components that are in failure mode too or that particular component is not the one in failure mode?
Regards,
David
Alright. To start, thank you all, I am literally amazed by your overwhelming reactions. Guys chapeau bas to you all!!! I am not used to such attention. I will try to response to anyone above.
First thing’s first. This canned shait sound bar works again. The subwoofer is back and kicking. The problem were two resistors R219 and R220 on the subwoofer board. One was supposed to be 27k another was supposed to be 10k. In fact they were like 4k, respectively 1k or bellow (the 10k resistor gave me some jumping results on my multimeter). You can see the resistors in the pictures in my first entry. Also, the ribbon from the wireless adapter was full of white plastic, like some residues.
Picture with residues.
The same was on both ends of the ribbon. Cleaned the ribbon, changed the resistors, turned it on and that’s it.
1 David. SWA-7000 service manual is unreachable, at least for now. I did not know about the SWA-5000. For that thank you very much. I will try to figure out something out of it.
2 APDAHLAN. About the dual zenner. I do not know what to say. I get readings on whatever pin I lay my probes, both ways. I am tempted to say that it behaves like an NPN. But I am not sure, because i get readings (in situ) both ways. Maybe it is the circuit that gets me the strange values. I did not pull that part out. Now it is not necessary.
3.David. I am doing my best not to rely on guess. Occasionally I am taking the course of an educated guess. Well , I must admit it works in 10% of the cases (or less). So it does not work. :)))
4 ADAM. IC201 is marked WCAT (picture bellow) I had a guess about those Seiko, but could not find the marking. That made me second guess my options.
@David_11869 Well the explanation for my effort is simple. The subwoofer did not work. It was paired, kept on pairing, no strange light signals to indicate a problem. There was no sound form the speaker. Opened up the subwoofer and started probing. The audio chip seemed ok, no shorts, the rails were ok (to my surprise), the electrolytic caps (samwha) were like new, or with very little wear (again, to my surprise). Came to that part and suspicions started. The rest is history. I have thought that my years of experience (not so many, but some) will help me get over this. So they did. And my trusty multimeter.
Again thank you all. If i will find out what that part is I will post it. Cheers to you all!
Good luck @coman.g.bogdan, and keep on trying to repair things.
It’s always a joy to know something now works because of what you did.
Sincerely,
Aaron
We are here to help you. Good luck in all your projects and have a nice day.
Hello. The source of my present days headache lies down on a Samsung PCB AH41-01755A, which is an amp board for a Samsung HW-j7500 Subwoofer. It bears a JKOU mark on it. I cannot find what it is. Low voltage regulator? Linear? Non linear? NPN? PNP? No idea.
Hi, the JKOU marking is a bit difficult to identify without more information since PCB markings can vary by manufacturer. A clear photo of the component (including the surrounding circuit and package type) would help. Checking the nearby components and tracing the pins may also reveal whether it’s being used as a regulator, transistor, or another switching device.
