Hi, I’m trying to test, and possibly replace the IR receiver on my car stereo. I need help identifying it so I can figure out which leads are which. It has “H08” in a circle in the middle and what appears to be “PID071”. TIA!
PS- I definitely overheated it while trying to test it. The back wasnt melted like that before I started messing with it lol If the receiver wasnt the problem before, Im sure it is now!
IMG_3766|375x500
Hi,
Rohm device is closest that could find with a quick search, but is probably not the exact match.
https://www.digikey.com/en/products/detail/rohm-semiconductor/RPM7138-V4R/1596708
You could perhaps remove the part and measure each of the terminal with DMM. The Gnd pin should have a low resistance to the chassis ground, the Vcc pin should have +3.3V to +5V voltage when the unit is powered up. The third pin, which may measure Vcc or Gnd, but has higher impedance is then the signal pin. It seems to be a some sort of standard that the leftmost pin is the signal pin, Gnd is in the middle and Vcc on right.
Cheers,
heke
AsamaLab
Thanks for your reply! I’m still wondering about some things, though.
The radio used several other Panasonic components, so I just used the Panasonic layout with (from L to R) 1: Vout, 2: Gnd, 3: Vcc. I never found a match either, but all of their receivers seemed to have the same pin orientation.
I tested it while it was still in the board, do you think that will mess up the results and that I would definitely need to take it out to test it?
Assuming it could still be tested while in the board, when I hooked it up to an LED, the LED was constantly lit. Would that be a symptom of it being fried? Or just a sign that I hooked it up wrong?
I guess the board could be messing up the results too…
At this point, I did probably ruin it in the process and will need to replace it. If I can’t find the exact match, will I most likely have to replace the IR emitter in the remote too in order for them to match?
Thanks,
Caleb
PS- That Rohm that you found does look a lot closer to what I have than any of the Panasonics I looked at. Does Rohm have a standard marking on it to at least narrow it down to brand?
The Rohm part that is linked above is obsolete with no remaining stock. I located another possibility for you to look at, Vishay Semiconductor Opto Division part number TSMP4138 or Digi-Key part number TSMP4138-ND. For web link click herehttps://www.digikey.com/en/products/detail/vishay-semiconductor-opto-division/TSMP4138/3672215
What all must be considered to evaluate if a sensor is a good replacement for another. I don’t have any way of verifying the frequency of the original sensor.
#Paco1038 - This is most likely a receiver for a remote. This would generally be a pretty standard frequency but if you had the original remote or the manual for the stereo/remote that might confirm the actual frequency. The frequency would be the biggest thing to consider on this. Otherwise, I would say the Vishay option is a pretty safe bet.
Yes it’s for the remote to my Pioneer car stereo. I can’t find info on the receiver but the remote emitter is 433mHz. Will your suggested receiver work with that?
As far as I know, in general, a remote emitter has a broad range of frequencies that it emits and that rating you referenced would be the peak frequency. This should work with the receiver that was recommended but I can’t be 100% sure as there is some variance in the functionality of different remotes.
Hi paco1038,
As it seems that your IR-receiver has suffered a major damaging event, it may be better to test the new receiver’s compatibility without soldering it to the target. If you have a power supply with 3V to 5V output and an oscilloscope, you may hook the power to the receiver’s power legs with hook clips and measure the voltage waveform from the Carrier Out -pin while the remote control is pointed at it and a key is pressed.
The damage suggests that the power supply circuit of the car player has a problem (e.g. may have provided battery voltage to the receiver). Try measuring the voltages at the receiver pads, if any of them is above 5V. If so, you should not attempt to replace the receiver before the supply problem is fixed.
The 433MHz sounds like a radio link based remote, not infrared. Do you have infrared LED or “dark” window in your remote? You can test with a video camera that the IR remote works (most of cameras are sensitive to IR).
Cheers,
heke
AsamaLab
