Broken switch

@DigiKey_Internal

Does anyone recognize this switch? I was unable to locate a good alternate for it. The customer claims that It is an on/off toggle switch (the switch on top of this one is broken off), and there are six connections on the bottom. They would like it to have the exact specs as well as physical dimensions so that it would fit nicely in place of the broken one.

BrokenSwitch

I’m sure they would like to have the exact match. Did they offer the physical dimensions of that switch? the height of the toggle?

I also suspect the switch may be a more than just an on off. It appears that they are not using 2 of the 6 terminals. Did it have a function that they were not using? Or it is possible that it is an On-On and they are not using the second side so it turns off? In addition to the physical specs to cross how they are wiring might help ensure we are looking at the right function.

This should be a good start, you’ll need to verify the mounting hole diameter, switch operation (on-on, on-off-on, mom-off-mom, etc), ingress protection, and a few other things

This is from the customer:

P { MARGIN-BOTTOM: 0em; MARGIN-TOP: 0em } IMG { HEIGHT: auto } P {margin-top:0;margin-bottom:0;}

Here’s two more pictures. The first one shows the only other markings on the part. In case it’s not clear enough in the picture, the marking on the right is “CH”. The one on the left is a little harder to make out, it kind of looks like a backwards “R” connected to a “J”.

The other picture is just from the top down.

Here are the dimensions using a digital calipers. Note that with wires still attached it was a little tough getting the calipers where I wanted, so these measurements are somewhat rough.

  • Bottom surface (with the six terminals): 17.44 mm x 27.60 mm
  • Height (“box” only, not including top cylindrical piece): 16.15 mm
  • Diameter of threaded cylindrical top part : 11.65 mm
  • Length of toggle switch above plastic collar: 17.6 mm

I’ve attached two more pictures. One shows the wiring on the bottom a little more clearly, right next to the same model of switch used for another function (the broken one is on the right). I can’t say for sure whether the switch is On-Off or On-On, but it is only a two position switch (so it is not an On-Off-On or anything like that). The other picture shows the switch above the front panel of the instrument. The one marked “Air” is the broken one, but the one marked “Strobe” to the left of it is an identical switch.

We don’t really use the “Strobe” functionality, so I suppose I could just swap the two switches if necessary. Luckily it was broken while in the “Off” position.

Thanks for putting so much effort into this.

The customer was also able to Identify the Manufacturer as Cutler Hammer, now owned by Eaton.

He could probably use one of these two:

CWI298-ND Paddle is nearly same length, but body is larger (34L x 21.5W x 22.1D (plus 10.5mm for contacts)) and nut is wrong color

679-1263-ND Paddle is shorter (13.5mm), but body is smaller and nut is black

Both of these exceed the current ratings of the original, so that shouldn’t be a problem.

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