Compatibility between Ge and Mean Well led drives

Hi!! i need confirmatión about compatibily between the led drive drive Mean Well MODEL 1866-XLG-200-L-AB-ND vs GE (general electric) model GELD100MV480PVNA283455, INPUT 120-277 VAC 50/60HZ, OUTPUT 298VCD MAX, 480mA MAX OTPUT 100 WATTS. Can i use the Mean Well? i think is better and improved technical features than the Ge.

Thanks in advance!!!

Hello,

Welcome to the TechForum.

I think so, as long as the Mean Well USA output voltage of 142 ~ 285VDC output fits your range. I see the GE is 60-155VDC output so works better for below 142VDC.

Thank you
Ryan

Thanks!! only one thing, the Ge output is 170-240VDC, 298 vdc MAX…where you see the 60-155vcd output for the Ge?

i need it for ceiling lamps aplicattión, double drive 250-270 vdc serial leds racclettes… if you are right ( and i think so) the Mean Well are the correct choice.

Yes, that does look good. I found the GE datasheet online and i’ll have it below.

GE LED LightTech Driver GELD100MV480PVNA2 — Data Sheet | OLP0000

Thank you
Ryan

This document source would seem to indicate a rather different output range for the GE product. It would be a thing worth verifying.

Either way though, the Meanwell product drives 700mA while the GE reference item appears to target 480mA. While the MW product mentioned appears to offer an adjustment that could compensate for the difference, forgetting to do so would result in a ~45% increase in drive to the connected LEDs, likely resulting in accelerated failures.

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thanks Rick, but…the difference in the mA output, an increase in current power is better, like in battery charger, the drive or the leds only take what they need in consumption, ergo only takes what they need in current, >mA, better, or i wrong? maybe i need more info about it, and remember, my mother language is Spanish, maybe i dont fully understand the concept…

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OOOHH!! ok, i read the document, sorry the percentages arediffeternt in the GE, i need a comment with my colleagues about it, but i don’t think it´s much of a problem

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I’m not sure if your next comment means you already grasped it, but just to be sure:
The “the load only takes what it needs” is a common “rule”, that is specifically misleading for LEDs.

Common “adjustable” power supplies adjust the voltage to a regulated value, and have a maximum current they can supply at that voltage.

LEDs have a very large current change in a narrow voltage range (a “3.6V, 140 mA” white LED may draw 14 mA at 3V, and will be releasing smoke at 4.2 V), LED power supplies instead adjust the current (or for the MeanWell: power) to a regulated value (set by the dimmer input), and have a minimum and maximum voltage range they will provide to ensure the current is what is asked.

Unless the supply or the dimmer is adjusted to match, the MeanWell would try to regulate to a higher current value at the same dimmer input setting, resulting in higher voltage, brigher light, more heat, and less lifetime for the LEDs.

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Note that this is somewhat mitigated, if the LED fixtures used have resistors inline, specifically to avoid this situation if someone connects them directly to unregulated DC. But that also means losing some power to heat in those resistors. And avoids learning expensive lessons quickly :slight_smile:

Laur, thanks for the explanation, yes is a common mislead, and i know it now, thanks by your knowledge, one more thing, this lamps are not controlled by dimmer, can we have any trouble(problem) with that? the leds are direct connect to driver no resistors.
or the result its the same, lees lifetime for the leds…

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one more thing…(another one sorry) Can we use the Mean Well drives? or not? …

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The MeanWell has an adjustment pot on the bottom that can supposedly set the Io down to 350 mA. That is the same lower limit as the GE.

However, depending on the actual voltage that the LEDs take at the 480mA, it may fall outside the operating area. The GE power supply pushes 480 mA, and it may push it at anywhere from 170 V (80 W) to 240 V (115 W).
The Mean Well is a constant power driver: Turning the potentiometer all the way down will produce 100W.

So: It’ll probably work, but we are not your engineers, do not know all the details of your system, and so can’t tell you that it will work. And you’ll have to adjust each one if it does work, and if someone forgets to adjust one you get a very hot LED fixture.

@ laur.joost is correct.

If you push more current than your LEDs are designed to handle, they will die prematurely, and if that current is increased by more than a relatively small percentage above the correct value, that death may be measured in days, hours, or minutes, depending on thermal conditions.

The drivers in question are designed to increase the output voltage (up to their respective maximum specified values) in order to get the current up to the set limit. It will raise or lower the voltage to maintain that current. If this current exceeds the rating of the LEDs, then it will very quickly damage them.

It looks like the GE driver’s current set point is also adjustable, so the drive current could have been set to a value less than 480mA. If so, you would need to make sure that your replacement driver does not exceed whatever current the GE driver was set to, so as not to damage the LEDs.