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I have a gate opener system that is powered by a small circuit board, shown in the accompanying photos. The board uses a 12-volt battery backup, and it receives an 18-volt DC current to keep the battery charged. Right now, the board runs exactly as it should when only the battery is connected. The problem is that, for some reason, when I connect the 18-volt power-in from the manufacturer-specified transformer, it blows the thermofuse in the transformer (which cannot be replaced). The first time this happened, I figured it was just a bad transformer. However, the board blew a second transformer, so there is something going on.
While I had the 18v power connected, the green LED in the lower right-hand corner came on, the way it is supposed to, to indicate that the board has external power. Again, everything on the board works just fine when only the battery is connected.
I don’t see anything on the front or back of the board that looks like it could be shorting out the board, resulting in a blown transformer. I would welcome any suggestions about things that I could look at as possible faults. Also, if anyone is interested in trying to repair this for a fee, I would be interested in talking to you.
These boards cost $200 new and can be had for $80 used but I hate to throw it away if there is a simple answer to the problem. Thanks for reading my post.
The problem may be the surge protection MOV (Metal Oxide Varistor), labeled VAR1 on the PCB, has absorbed its lifetime capacity of surges and is now clamping at too low a voltage.
I’d try removing VAR1 and see it that fixes the problem. If you have a test bench power supply with current limiting you can use that in place of the wall wart to avoid burning out another one. If you don’t have a bench PS then wire a fast blow fuse rated for the wall wart current output in series so that the fuse blows instead of the wall wart.
Thanks a lot for looking at my post and responding. I am going to give your suggestion a try. I don’t have a bench PS, so I am going to try the fast blow fuse approach after removing the MOV.
The dedicated PS is rated 18v, 40VA (2200ma).
I am sure the blade-type automotive fuses are readily available at the local autoparts store; the glass tube kind I would probably have to order online. Do you think a 40A blade fuse would work for this purpose? Also, do I need to put one in series on each of the two wires between the PS and the board, or just on one of them?
Thanks again for your help - I am very excited that it may be possible to fix this. I was getting ready to send it off to one of the online PCB repair businesses and then I read the fine print on their website, which explains that they only work on industrial circuit boards and have a minimum repair charge of $250!
A 40A fuse will provide no protection for a 2200mA (2.2A) device. You need a fuse with a rating of 2.2A or less so I would use a 2A fuse. If the 2A fuse pops right away I’d try a 2A slow blow or 2.5A fast blow next.
You only need a fuse on one line from the wall wart for full protection.
It can be hard to find 2A blade style fuses in stock anywhere local, but Home Depot and many other hardware/home improvement/auto parts stores carry glass fuses and inline holders, so you should be able to pick them up locally.
Thanks again, Paul. I’ve just ordered some fuses online and I removed the MOV in the meantime. I will report back once I get the fuses and try applying power to the PCB again.
I thought I would try to find a replacement MOV to put back when the time comes. I am attaching a photo of the one I took out. The markings are: ZNR (which I understand refers to a MOV) / V14390 / 94. Here’s a photo:
I finally received the 2.0 amp slow blow fuses in the mail today and I soldered one to one of the leads between the PS and the PCB power input. I had it plugged in for more than 10 minutes and the fuse did not blow, nor did the PS, and I could see from the green LED on the board that it had power. So, that seems to confirm your theory that the MOV was causing the problem. I am impressed by your ability to troubleshoot accurately like that based on a photo or two and a description of the problem.
Do you think I need to do any other troubleshooting at this point (like removing the 2 amp fuse and wiring the PS directly to the board to see what happens)? Or should I just go ahead and buy a replacement MOV and solder it in?
Your very welcome, I love to help others with problem solving.
I knew that this type of failure will happen given a long enough time in service when I first learned about and added MOV’s as surge protectors to products 35 years ago. Although it was more than a decade before I actually saw a failed unit. For the last almost 40 years I’ve worked at one company designing small AC powered instruments that on average stay in service for 25 years. So I’ve helped our technicians with troubleshooting these types of failure symptoms many times.
No you don’t need to do any more troubleshooting, install a new MOV and you should be good to go.
Since you’ve got it, I’d leave the fuse in place to give extra protection to the AC adapter. At some point in the future, maybe not for another decade or more, some other parts are going to fail and cause a different fault, excess current draw. The fuse will prevent that failure mode from burning out the expensive AC adapter as well as protect against damage from the nearly certain future failure of the new MOV.
I don’t include a fuse in my product designs because of the high cost of a fuse and holder and with my designs the warranty is only 5 years and I’ve never had an MOV fail in less than 10. Most of the power side MOVs we ship are still OK 35 years later so the extra cost isn’t economical for us. Most potential customers already balk at the higher cost of our products (2x to 20x the competition). Many of then don’t buy from us until after half a decade or more of paying to service our multiple competitors 1 year warrantied products. Many more potential customers just give up on the whole product category thinking that warranty length is not an indicator of product life costs.
Thanks again, Paul. I just placed an order for some MOVs from Digi-Key.
I have always had an interest in electronic circuits but never had a chance to develop the knowledge. When I was a kid my dad bought a HeathKit alarm clock for me to assemble, along with a soldering iron, as birthday gifts. I got impatient waiting for him to show me how to go about it, so I followed the HeathKit instructions and soldered all of the components to the PCB. There probably was something in the instruction manual about using as little solder as possible, but I missed that. I basically covered the bottom of the circuit board with solder. My dad sent the board back to HeathKit and remarkably they were able to get all the solder off there.
I have a 14 VAC 120VAC 1430mA gate transformer that is also blowing
I see you suggested removing the MOV from the PCB AND INSTALLING A FAST BLOW FUSE INLINE to the PCB FROM THE TRANSFORMER
What size fast blow fuse should I use?
I’m thinking a 1.5 amp glass fuse
Any help would be appreciated
I have a linear 2000XLS GATE OPENER WITH A R5722 PCB
THANKS Ken Young
Install a fuse in series with the transformer output to prevent burning out the new transformer (For a 1.43A transformer I recommend trying a 1.25A slow blow first)
Connect power to the transformer
If the system works then install a replacement MOV.
Thank you Paul, for your help. I have ordered both the MOV you suggested and some slow blow 1.25 fuses along with in line holders. I am thinking of putting the fuse inside my Gate control Box to keep it weather proof.
Thanks again for all the advise, I will post again after completion of work.
Ken
Paul I have a question regarding the need to remove but not but in a new MOV. Why not just install a new one before connecting power to the PCB as in my case I’d have to install the PCB into the control box with all the connections to the Gate opener, if I did not reinstall the new MOV first I would have to remove the PCB again and then install the MOV and reinstall the PCB board a second time.
Is it actually necessary to leave the MOV out?
My original issue was the Swing gate was opening by itself and in investigating it I found a bad Transformer, installed a new one and a new backup battery but again found the Gate had opened by itself and again investigated and found a bad Transformer no power to the PCB.
My Plan if you agree is to remove AND REPLACE the MOV with a NEW MOV which you suggested and I have coming to me. Once this replacement is done I will install the PCB into the control box and install all wiring as directed by the MFG of the Gate. I then will allow the gate to operate and see if the Transformer looses power again and if the gate opens by itself. If the Gate opens by itself and the Transformer is OK I will then contact the Gate opener Tech Dept. for further help. If the Transformer is OK and the Fuse is Blown I will also contact the Gate Opener Tech Dept. for help.
Lastly, Should I install the fuse inside the control box or at the Transformer which is located on a Outside Pole, electric 110 V duplex outlet, that has a flip up cover to protect somewhat to the weather. I will be using a screw together R3-32 Glass holder 16 Gage wire. Your Thoughts are Appreciated.
Ken
Not at all, it is only save time while bench testing and repairing a device (cut out old part, test, if OK replace). Since you are unable to bench test go ahead and install it.
Paul you did not respond to this question maybe you may have overlooked it.
Should I install the fuse inside the control box or at the Transformer which is located on a Outside Pole, electric 110 V duplex outlet, that has a flip up cover to protect somewhat to the weather. I will be using a screw together R3-32 Glass holder 16 Gage wire. Your Thoughts are Appreciated.
Ken
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Electrically it doesn’t matter if the fuse is closer to the transformer output or the controller input. So I’d put the fuse holder wherever it has the best protection from the rain to minimize corrosion over time.
