Thank You, Paul
Hi everybody I’m Edgar and I had the same board my issue with this board is when I close the gate the door open alone. Is this a Relay issue?
Also another question the 4 relay it is 16V? 12V? or 9V?
Regards
With the label still on the relays, I am not able to tell what the voltage is and possible part number. I do not see the other listing so I do not know what was recommended. Relays may be problem
Any idea how to calcularle this voltage? Or what can i do?
There is no way to calculate the voltage, you’d have to measure the relay coil voltage when the product is powered up and a relay is turned on. This would be risky for an inexperienced technician because a tiny slip of the measurement probe on a live power circuit can easily burn out more of the parts on the PCB.
Easiest thing to do is remove the labels so that the relay part numbers are visible.
They look to be ordinary computer printed paper labels so I’d start with a simple pair of tweezers and see if they pull off. May need to lift the label edges a little with a razor/Xacto blade to get the peeling started.
If they don’t come off cleanly then use a Q-tip (cotton swap) dampened with mineral spirits (hardware store) to loosen the labels. Try it on only one relay area of the label first to make sure it doesn’t remove any of the printing on the relay. Rubbing alcohol also often works, but alcohol is more likely to remove some of the ink on the parts.
Hi Edgar,
The relay is probably NEC’s MR301-9ES, 15A SPTD with 9V coil voltage.
https://www.digchip.com/datasheets/parts/datasheet/322/EN2-B1N1S-pdf.php
(Page 8)
Cheers,
Heke, AsamaLab
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Thank you so much for you reply heke I would try the 9v relay.
For a comment… I remove the label and is on blank I also try to found the data sheet from photos that anicely upload but nothing.
Dear Paul and colleagues,
Paul’s assistance 3 years ago enabled me to keep my PCB out of the trash can; I was able to remove and replace an MOV that was causing the power transformer to blow. Since then, I have been using that board in my basement to bench test other parts when I run into an issue.
Recently, the PCB that is in regular use outside my house (these PCBs control gate openers) developed an issue. The PCB powers two gate arms (aka “operators”). My PCB is able to send power to the “FIRST OPERATOR,” but not the “SECOND OPERATOR.” Using a mini-tester, I confirmed that, when the remote control button is pressed, the 1st operator receives 12v power at the screw terminals, but the 2d operator does not. The question is why…
In looking at the PCB, I noticed that there is an MOV in front of each operator’s bank of screw terminals (marked VAR2 and VAR3). Is it possible that VAR3 (the one for the 2d operator, which is not working) has absorbed its lifetime capacity of surges, and is now preventing the arm from receiving power?
If this is a good theory, can I test it by checking for power at the two solder points for VAR3, or do I need to remove VAR3 to see if it is the problem?
Thanks for any suggestions you may have.
Andrew
It seems plausible.
Generally if an MOV is protecting a terminal it will have clearly visible wide short length PCB tracks going directly to the terminals. So my first step would be to visually trace out the MOV connections.
- If they do go directly to the terminals, then I’d check the resistance (continuity) of the PCB connections. Each of the two connections should have close to zero ohms resistance. If the PCB traces check OK, then you’ve already checked the voltage across the MOV’s when you measured at the terminals.
- If they do NOT go directly to the terminals then you will need to repeat the test and compare the readings between the two MOV’s in the on and off states.
Thanks for these tips, Paul. I haven’t had a chance to try them out, but I will report back once I have done so. Have a good weekend.
Andrew
Paul:
I hope you are still around so I can get your opinion on an issue I have with not one but two Elite Q400 Omni control boards. Elite is now owned by Liftmaster and getting help from them or any dealers is non existent to say the least.
I read your advice on MOV’s aging and shunting too low which I believe is the case for both of my boards which tripped protection in the same gate opener when power was cut. I purchased replacement control boards however they will not spin up my motors (hum like a bad run cap however it not I replaced cap) so I’m back to trying to get my original boards fixed. My motors ran fine up until the boards were power glitched in separate incidents while operating… I purchased enough movs to replace the suspected devices however I need to expand my suspect list. I also notice the replacement control boards had much larger movs with no markings… I am going to attempt to attach a picture of my old board… I am open to suggestions.
LJ
Your description sounds like the power surge killed the motor itself.
I’d test the motor on it’s own first, without a controller board, to verify it can open the gate without drawing too much current.
If the motor can open the gate but the new controller does not work, I’d contact the seller of the new controller board for help.
Paul,
New to the forum but you are a wealth of knowledge! My GTO 2000 linear gate opener stopped functioning. I was reading through the forum and the VAR1 that links to the 18VAC input on my control board is dead.
When I test the VAR2 & 3, they both make Mr. Fluke sing. I’m going to pull it out so I can read the numbers on it.
With power connected, the green LED light is solid. When I hit the remote for the gate, I only get a clicking sound from the receiver.
Prior to this non-working state, the motor would “chug a few inches” in open or close command.
I thank you in advance!
Welcome to the technical forum. Yes. The part would open with a MOV. Usually if a varistor reads a low resistance it is not good anymore. If you can read an infinite resistance it will be good. Replacing these is easy and they only take so many surges to be bad. So it is an easy fix. We would just need a what is on the part and possibley the size to hopefully find a replacement.
The test for MOV’s is to simply remove them from the circuit completely and see if the circuit starts operating normally. (an MOV is for surge protection only and virtually all circuits work without them in place)
If the circuit operates normally then the MOV was the only dead component. However make sure to replace the MOV because without the MOV power surges will kill other more expensive portions of the circuit often within hours or days.
If the circuit does not operate normally with the MOV removed then the MOV did not succeed in stopping all damage to the rest of the circuit.
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Hi I am new on here so if I am placing my question in the wrong area, my apologies. I have a mighty mule control board R4211 that I am having issues with the safety portion of the circuit board; even with new photo beams I am not getting green lights on the receiver to dial in the laser beam. I was told by a technician over the phone that that part of the control board has failed and that I will need a new board. I was hoping someone could point me in the direction of what electrical components could have failed to cause this issue. Thank you
