Looking for a fuse

Power Circuit Protection
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I got a klipsch subwoofer model RW 10D, the fuse was burned out, Klipsch send me an email to buy one from PARTS EXPRESS, the part number is # Littlelfuse 6,3A GDC 5x20mm slow blow but it is no longer available. Would you or anyone help me to get ann equivalent one. Thanks

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Here is an Eaton equivalent 6.3A SB GDC. 6,3 is the way Europe writes 6.3 like we do in the US and GDC is a glass slow blow fuse.

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Dear Gromit,
Thank you a lot for prompt reply. By the way I want to ask you a question that bother me too much that is my burned one has weird marking as follow

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If you can see it please let me know the equivalent one.l bought one from DigiKey #GDC 2A it burned out that is why I asked Klipsch they gave # GDC 6.3A. In case you can not see my up load photo it is my old # FT2AL250VP
Best regards

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Hello Huy,

That looks to be a 2A 250V glass 5x20, slow blow type. Take a look at the F1746-ND. It has those same ratings and we have it in stock ready to ship.

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Dear Koric,
Thank you for emailing me promptly, I order the part as you recommended, I’ll give it a try.
Best regards
Huy

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It appears as though you bought a 2A SB fuse. LF is Littelfuse 2AL is 2A Slow Blow fuse at 250 VAC. If Klipsch, the manufacturer, instructed you to use a 6.3A 250 VAC fuse that is the reason the 2A fuse blew. The 2A fuse is not large enough to hold the operating current of the circuit. I would use the fuse recommended by the manufacturer.

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Hi Gromit, my original fuse is Littelfuse T2AL250V when I took it out from the subwoofer.
Regards

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Hello huy_l_2000,

If your original fuse was T2AL250V, then it will match the F1746-ND recommended by Irfan_Koric. If it blows quickly, then you may have something wrong with your subwoofer.
I don’t know if I would use a 6.3A fuse, unless it is listed in the manual, or on the back of the subwoofer. If 2A is the original fuse from the manufacture, going to a higher amperage fuse can do more damage to the subwoofer circuitry.

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Hi David,
First I must thank you and other members come to help me they give me a lot information that I have learned from reading through those suggestions.
I think you’re right I have ordered the part Koric mentioned in his post. I’ll try it when I arrives. But Klipsch confirmed they gave me the correct information and said they got it from the list of RW 10D. I will not agree to try things that contradict
with the original part. You’re right when suggesting it might be the problem of subwoofer itself.
Best regards

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Hi huy_l_2000,

I found a link that you might be interested in here, regarding repairing your subwoofer. They discuss both the fuse and some failed MOSFETs, which might be the ultimate problem with your subwoofer.

As I read there, the consensus seemed to be that a 2 amp Littelfuse 5x20mm time lag (the 218 series) seemed to be the original part. Interestingly, the letters “GDC” you mention almost certainly refer to the Eaton/Bussman equivalent, which is the BK/GDC-2A. We carry both.

Regarding using a higher-current rated fuse – I would recommend against doing so. At worst, using a lower rated fuse will cause nuisance blowing of the fuse, but will generally prevent damage to other components. Using a fuse of a higher rating than required can allow parts downstream to be damaged.

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Continuing the discussion from Looking for a fuse:

Dear

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all my friends, sorry I cannot mention all the names because so many friends have come to help me in finding the fuse. The fuse I bought all have blown off. Today I checked thoroughly the back of subwoofer and I found out the marking of the fuse is printed on the back I’ll enclose the photo in this mail hoping I can find one with high interruption rate so it won’t break again. Best regards Sorry I cannot add the picture this time. I forgot how to upload the picture. it is simple like this 2A250V 120V 60hz 2A it’s simple like that no alphabet T or F ![image|666x500](upload://ohiM2FdoCkZUYFef8D1OdmfFwiT.jpeg) <div data-theme-slick="1"

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It is T2A250V 120V 60hz 2A sorry I make mistak

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Hello,
When I search part marking T2A250V I get this option, DigiKey part 4598-MST2A250VCT-ND. This is a PC board through hole mount. At first glass fuses were being mentioned , is this the style you need? Can you send a photo of the entire fuse?

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Hello,

You can take a look at part number MST 2A 250V. DigiKey part number 4598-MST2A250VCT-ND

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Would also add if you are putting the correct fuses in and they keep blowing, you probably have some other issue that’s causing this and would need to be fixed first.

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Thanks everyone,
My fuse is 5mmx20mm glass fuse.

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Ok, if you keep adding fuses and they’re popping you need to find out what’s causing that. Here’s a link that David_1528 posted that may offer some helpful hints, RW-10D Blows Fuses - Any Ideas? - Technical/Restorations - The Klipsch Audio Community

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