Hi Forum Folke,
I’m trying to source a 3-leg, pc-mount potentiometer used in many game controllers. They are standard analog pots, not digital. I’m having an awful issue with the pots in my xbox 360 controller; the response curve is just impossible to use with any accuracy. My feeling is that an audio-taper pot was used where a linear taper pot SHOULD have been used. I’d like to source the manufacturer of this pot so I can see if there are different tapers available, and if so, buy a couple of linear tapered pots of the same ohm value and solder 'em in to see if that fixes the problem.
I’ve had the thing apart, and there are two of them (x-axis and y-axis) per each joystick. They are mechanically fastened into a sheet-metal frame 90 degrees from each other, and without unsoldering the assembly from the board and completely tearing it down, the only visible markings on the pots are “B103 3810” on the face of the pot opposite the input shaft.
My fear is that the manufacturer buys these things by the carload in an OEM configuration, without any data printed on the part to identify it. Many pics of these things do not show any silkscreened information, and of the ones that do, most of then have the “B103 3810” visible on them (I have seen one other number, same format, same “B” prefix, but only that one… the vast majority are of the 3810 kind.)
Any ideas or leads to pursue or maybe somebody actually already knows this (somebody knows, somewhere, that’s for sure… hope there’s one here!)
Thanks for reading!
Unfortunately we don’t carry those joysticks, or the individual potentiometers used in them. You can search google for locating a replacement joystick, but I’m not sure if you’ll be able to find the individual potentiometers with a different taper. The 103 in the marking most likely calls out for the resistance value of 10k ohms.
1 Like
Thanks for your reply, Andy.
Oh, it isn't hard to find replacement joystick assemblies. Problem is, though, a replacement stick will just be a new version of what I already have, which isn't useable. That's why I want the bare pots, so i can substitute something different to see if this renders it more user-friendly.
I'm beginning to agree with you about finding these online. They're probably custom-built for the manufacturer. Thanks for the info re: 103, though.
Since I most likely won't be able to find the exact part or manufacturer, could you tell me if you carry this physical form-factor pot? If so, I can pick and choose which one(s) to try. Here's a pic of the kind of pot I'm looking for:
Okay, so that didn't work. I'll attach the file instead.
If you need additional information, such as pin centers or length or such, I'd be happy to provide it.
Again, it's not the full assembly I'm looking for, just the pot itself (looks to me like it's black, inside a torquoise retainer, which I don't believe is a part of the pot.)
Thanks again for the reply... didn't expect an answer so soon (or at all, really....)
Karl
Sorry for the delayed response. I also did mention earlier we don’t carry the individual potentiometers. The main difference from the ones we do carry is the shaft. From what I can make is that these potentiometers don’t have a shaft, instead they have a hole that the joystick housing snaps into. Which, unfortunately we don’t have any like that.
Figures… they’re probably custom made for the manufacturer… which kind of also answers my question about whether there are different taper pots available, which now seems unlikely. Thanks for your help. Hard to believe this thing is set up like this deliberately, though. Using this thing is like trying to walk a straight line when you’re so blitzed you can hardly speak. Looks like I might be looking for an answer in the wrong place (hardware error) though. Thanks again!
There are a wide variety of potentiometers used in gaming joysticks. If you search google for “FJN10K joystick”, you will find a data sheet that lists what most of the numeric codes mean. The B stands for linear, 103 is 10K, then there are dozens of codes to describe the effective angle and if there is a center dead-zone where the resistance does not vary. The way you describe the problem, I would think the pots in your joystick have a silver or low resistance section in the middle. From the two pictures, 2908 would be decoded a 60 degree angle with a 5 degree center low resistance section. 3810, which is really common through places like Sparkfun, is worse with a 35 angle with an 8 degree dead-zone. You want one that is all carbon with the second four digit code starting with A0 - D5.
ALPS used to make the RKJXP1224002 with all carbon, but discontinued it. If you are just looking to transplant the pots, I believe the RKJXK122400Y is the same pot. They also make the RKJXV1224005, but the gimbal is smaller.
ALPS joysticks are counterfeited frequently in China and may not be all carbon, so buy from an authorized dealer.
3 Likes
