Requesting help identifying the exploded cap in the picture and/or advice on suitable replacement.
I especially wonder what NP on the cap siginifies? Non-Polarized?
Some additional information:
The cap is from for a Subwoofer Crossover.
I can’t find a 90uF cap anywhere and 200V seems somewhat limited.
So, I’m going to replace with 2 caps hooked up in parallel - (450V 50uF) and (450V 40uF).
But, if I’m missing something like polarization it could be an issue.
The “NP” does indeed stand for non-polar when printed on an electrolytic capacitor. You can certainly hook up two electrolytic capacitors in parallel and that would work, however since you’d be working with 4 leads total it might be easier to just use a film capacitor at the 90uF value. Click HERE for some options that should work for you.
Thank you Klint,
The physical sizes on those film capacitors seem to be too big to fit into the space allotted.
I will order one anyway to check it out. Since there are 4 pins, is the recommendation to join each of the pairs at the longest opposite ends and thread into the two through-holes?
And regarding the electrolytic capacitors since I am replacing a non-polarized cap :
Should I use two 180 uF capacitors hooked up in series to get a 90uf, non-polarized cap or is there something else which might be recommended in my situation?
I’m guessing it would be a mistake to use polarized, 50uf and 40uf in parallel as I had planned because the resulting circuit will be polarized?
That, or just use one on either end. The provision of 4 pins rather than 2 is primarily for mechanical stability on devices of the type.
Use of a film type cap is the “something else which might be recommended.” Bipolar electrolytics can be cheap and compact in comparison, but are less suited to the purpose as a class. The relative scarcity of such devices is not without cause…
Failing that and given the use of standard (polarized) 'lytics, the series connection would indeed be the suggested option.