------Question for T9AS5L12-12 Please Put your question below------
Hello, I am trying to find a compatible replacement relay for my oven. The original one used a G8P-1A4P-V DC12 which is obsolete.
Would the T9AS5L12-12 work? The pinout and dimensions look compatible but its rated for slightly higher voltage and currrent. If any other replacement is more suitable please help.
Thanks
Pat
Welcome to the forum.
I’m seeing multiple small differences in the specifications between the original and recommended substitute.
Not sure which voltage and current specs you are asking about.
As a general rule with switch contact maximum voltage and current specs, you can substitute higher voltage and current ratings.
With the minimum load spec (current @ voltage), a higher rating may be a problem. The old part is 100 mA @ 5 VDC and the replacement is 1A, 5VDC or 12VAC. So if the load you are switching is less than 1A the replacement may not last long before the contacts go out of spec high resistance.
Hello @ptoulouse
One of the main differences between the T9AS5L12-12 and G8P-1A4P-V DC12 is going to be it contact current. T9AS5L12-12 has a lower contact current rating and may not last as long as the original part.
I did take a look, and I have found AZ2150-1A-12DEF and PR26-12V-S-900-1A-EF which both have the same specifications as G8P-1A4P-V DC12 but with a 40 Amp contact current rating.
thank you so much! I will order one of each and hopefully the pinout / fitment is the same.
It was pretty obvious the relay went bad when I inspected the board. I should be able to finally fix the oven in time for thanksgiving 
Unfortunately I received both replacement relays today, however they both are missing a pin. The one in the corner see below. Looking at the PCB theres a trace going to that pin so I assume both of those replacement wont be compatible. Is there any other relay that might work?
Oops, didn’t notice the two parts you originally mentioned are very different types (G8P-1A DC12=SPST=form A=4 pins vs T9AS5L12-12=SPDT=form C=5 pins) , sorry about that.
The SPDT versions of the suggested SPST relays are:
Although I’m short on time and haven’t had my 2nd coffee yet so I may be mistaken.
FYI - if the original is a SPDT it’s part number should be G8P-1C4P. But I’ve also found that the “-V” on the end of the number you posted is NOT listed as an option in the data sheet. So it may be a semi-custom version with an extra no connect terminal (5 pin SPST) that was custom made for the appliance manufacturer. If that’s the case, then the SPST 4-pin version should work electrically without the extra pin.
From what I have seen both the G8P-1C4P and G8P-1C4P-V are identical (they are also both 5 pins). The only difference is the material of the contact:
| G8P-1C4P Contact Material | Silver Alloy, Cadmium Free | |
|---|---|---|
| G8P-1C4P-V Contact Material | Silver Cadmium Oxide (AgCdO) |
|---|---|
If the original one (G8P-1C4P-V) use the SPDT form according to the product details here:
I assume the replacement one also needs to be SPDT right?
So both of the ones you suggested now should technically work (AZ2150-1C-12DE & PR26-12V-S-900-1C-EF)
Are the pinout always the same when they are the same SPDT form? Other than the 5th pin missing the previous ones were fitting perfectly (alignment and pin location).
thanks!
Oops, sorry you ended up with the wrong parts for substitution.
Opening post:
Last post:
This is why things got mixed up.
As to my last post, I just took what @anthony_14117 had recommended and used the “Product Attributes” table to find the SPDT (form C) versions of those parts.
I did not delve any deeper than that so follow my forum volunteer suggestions with caution (at work I would not be handing out such lightly researched advise).
A tip from 50+ years repair experience, the picture of the PCB damage implies to me that something else in the system pulled more current through that relay than it could handle. If that turns out to be correct, then a new relay will not last long.
That’s right, I must not have noticed the different letter when searching for the specs on Google at first. Then I must have used that cut & paste… my mistake 
The original one is G8P-1C4P-V, would the last 2 that you recommended would work?
The problem with the oven started after the lady did a self cleaning cycle. I guess it gets really hot and pull a lot of power. Then the oven wouldnt power up anymore. The pcb has the burned terminal but also a cold solder joint on the other on the right. Looks like it may have had a cold solder joint and bad contact / arching.
I am recapping all boards, replacing all relays, will reflow the high voltage connections and hope for the best I guess lol otherwise we might need a new oven.
I mostly repair arcade video game boards and rebuild CRT arcade monitor chassis, not appliance. Those cold solder joints happen all the time usually in the high voltage section, flyback and other components. When rebuilt, reflowed “usually” they come back alive so I was hoping the same.
Maybe, I don’t have time to properly study the data sheets to be more certain
