Trying to find or cross refrence some capacitors markings are AAG.
350f. 15v
Any help would be greatly appre

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Would you have the diameter and height of the capacitor body?

The most similar items I had found shown in the below link.
Click here

I do not …and currently out of town working

Do you have a suggestion? Im new at this obviously i dont want it to catch fire or short anything out .these go to an old 1970 sears and robock stereo radio counsel…

Shoul i go higher in value or lower in value ( v)

higher voltage values are better.

Thank you very much …
Oh boy lol lil nervous…i appreciate your help…

The dimensions are to make sure that it fits in the given space.
The other dimension to look at is the center to center lead spacing.
If that is fairly similar and the body size is close then the 350µF 15v+ items can work.

Ok cool great advice thank you

Having repaired dozens of Sears branded console stereos back in the 70s and 80s, I’m virtually certain any modern electrolytic of 350uF to 500uF and 15V to 50V will work perfectly.

Since there are no 350uF parts in stock I did a search for in stock, 350uF to 400uF and found a good selection of 390uF 16V electrolytic capacitors that I’m sure will work electrically.

Choose a part from that list that is the close in size to the old one.

My guess is that given the amount of empty space around the part in the photo, any of those choices will fit good enough.


Paul thank you very much that is a great help…

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Good day I’ve got another one it’s three capacitors but they are made of what appears to be a light cardboard…from a 1970 sears and robock stereo radio counsel the markings are different
#1 says malloy 2000MFD 25VDC RED
#2&#3 1000 MFD 25 VNP BLK. As you can see at bottom got chew up when I took them out …

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take a look at these options.

565-EKYC250ELL202MK20S-ND 2000UF 20% 25V RADIAL

1189-1245-ND 1000UF 20% 25V

Wow, I’d forgotten that cardboard insulation was still on some back then, the change to plastic wrapping was underway.

It turns out one of the marketplace suppliers has Mallory parts in stock that should work for this.

However to get them faster and save some cash, I’d buy the excellent subs @Robert_1552 suggested.


HI @PaulHutch,

Does it look like that large capacitor was a replacement? Do I see a twistlock opening?

Also, @jessegrob94, you may want to consider using terminal strips such as these. There is usually room under the chassis. The terminal strips keep the project clean and a bit more mechanically robust.



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I will take a look into this and get back to you… I owe you guys a huge thank you and beer and pizza thank for the advice have a great weekend and be safe

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Thank you so much I will look into this and get back to you…you guys have helped alot

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So im working on a 1970 sears robock stereo console. I ordered parts and electrolytic capacitors from digikey and everything arrived perfect and timely except for me and my oversight or lack of… i have 3 capacitors they are 3 inches tall x 1 inch round …1 capacitor 2000 mfd x 25v is labeled black is negative. With a red and black wire coming out of it…the other 2 capacitors 1000mfd x 25v both have red wires coming out of it …wich im assuming is positive…i dont know how i should hook up new capacitors or if i even got the right ones …the new capacitors are 1000uf 20 % 25v

The old capacitors appear to be made of wrapped in cardboard

Hello jessegrob94,

This is sort of a tough one because MFD can mean both millifarads or microfarads. (Click HERE for a Forum post regarding this dilemma.) I believe due to the age of capacitor it is most likely going to be in microfarads; or what we commonly have as µF. This means the 1000µF capacitors should work for the two 1000mfd capacitors. You will want a 2000µF part for the 2000mfd capacitor HERE. (Note that it may say 2mF or 2000uF. These are the same values.) My concern, however, is that you mention 3 terminals on the larger value capacitor, and most of these will only contain two. I did a little research and Murata has a nice explanation regarding how they can help as a filter. I mention this as I’m not sure how important that is for your application, and the capacitors in the link I provided do not have that third terminal.

In regard to hooking them up, it may be extremely important to know the polarity of the circuit as if they are not connected in the right polarity, you can expect some loud popping sounds in your future. Check out our guide referring to identifying the capacitor polarization indicators to ensure that can be confident you’re hooking them up correctly.