I know this is a long shot, but the alternative is toss it out….
I have a RAIDMAX RX-1000AP-S Scorpio1000w PC PSU that did not work out of the box, I did not spend much time testing parts, set it aside for later. Then I was in a rush I needed 2 capacitors and could not wait I pulled 2 out of this PSU and thought I took photos of the values. But I cannot find the photos cept the one (attached). When I got around to testing it better I found one Voltage regulator is shorted I want to repair this (since it’s brand new) but I need to know the values of the capacitors they are “Jun Fu” brand.
In the main photo I have made a blue circle around those capacitors because I have also included a close up of the print on them for reference (they appear to be a bit fatter/wider than the ones missing, so must not be the same value - see the Jun Fu’s up close in a separate photo) I have then circled in red the missing capacitors.
From what I can tell it almost looks like x600 uf (so like 1600uf or 1800 or?) and x0 V (so like 10v?) but 1600uf 10v does not seem to come in this package? I know there is a very common set of capacitor values (which I am not very knowledgeable on all values) but I was hoping someone here might be able to help me figure the values out via “deduction of logic”.
Here is the only photo I have of it:
I have zoomed in on that photo to see the print better:
Enhanced the brightness a bit in this one:
The side of the capacitors circled in blue here:
Hello @Dr_PC_Repair,
From your last picture, this looks like a through-hole 2200 uF 16 VDC radial electrolytic capacitor.
Please refer to this video where I show how to select capacitors from DigiKey with an emphasis on physical size.
Happy New Year!
APDahlen
P.S. Recommend 105°C rated parts.
I guess you did not read my post. I KNOW the capacitors shown are 2200 uf as they clearly show the label however the ones I am trying to ID are not the same physical size and have a 3, 6 or 8 in the uf listed on the label.
Sorry @Dr_PC_Repair,
I’m missing something.
Are you saying unidentified capacitors have the same physical size and shape as the 2200 uF but are labeled as 3, 6, and 8 uF?
That’s a head scratcher.
Is it possible that they are using surface-mount-like designation for the parts?
Sincerely,
Aaron
One additional thought.
Those caps may be on the high side of the power supply with considerably higher voltages and lower capacitance.
I cannot tell from your description which caps you are trying to replace, but the most common values for capacitors are the following (and factors of 10x these values):
100uF
120uF
150uF
180uF
220uF
270uF
330uF
390uF
470uF
560uF
680uF
820uF
The capacitors that have the 3, 6 or 8 in the uF listed on the label as shown from the top, can be hard to deduce what capacitance they are. The best way to know what capacitance they are, is to see them from the side, as then there will be no questions regarding the capacitance they are.
MAIN PHOTO: RED CIRCLE CAPACITORS ARE MISSING (this is an old photo so I cannot take a photo of the missing capacitors since they are missing I want to replace them but all I have to go on their values is this one photo in which you can just see part of the value on the tops of them in the RED CIRCLE)
MAIN PHOTO: CIRCLED IN BLUE are the SAME BRAND name capacitors as the 2 missing but these are just slightly physically larger. They are still inside the PSU so I CAN take a photo of them as seen in the last photo they are 2200 uf 16v I included a photo of them so people get an idea of the brand/print style to help ID the missing capacitors CIRCLED in RED.
The Zoomed in top view photos are the missing capacitors I am looking for (in otherwords I cannot look at them even if I wanted to because they are not there). However in this old photo I can see them still there and can make out part of their values. I posted here in hopes someone might have some input as to what the missing digits on the capacitors might be.
Seems no one read my post. I said these capacitors are MISSING aka REMOVED I want to replace them but the only photo I have with indication of what value they were is the photo I have included. If I try to take a photo of them now you will see this empty space like this:
To quote my own original post “I have then circled in red the missing capacitors.” Since you can see either a 3 6 or 8 on them, then they can’t be most of those you listed (they are not small enough either to be 3 digit values). They are most likely 1300uf 10v, 1600uf 10v, or 1800uf at 10v since the 2200uf capacitors (circled in blue) are just a touch larger/wider and are 16v. However those values seem uncommon so I was hoping someone might look at the pics to give me feedback on what they think the “6” on the top or whatever that digit is.
Hi Dr_PC_Repair,
Your last post to @APDahlen clarified your situation.
Unfortunately, there just isn’t enough to go on to make an intelligent guess. I gave you the common capacitance values in my last post. Just add a zero to each for higher values.
Capacitor size within a specific series is dictated by a combination of capacitance and voltage, with higher capacitance increasing size for a given voltage rating, and higher voltage increasing size for a given capacitance value.
We don’t even know what the voltage rail is for C32 and it’s partner in crime, so that makes things pretty much impossible to guess. If it were on the same voltage rail as those 2200uF 16V caps and were from the same capacitor series (fairly likely), and they were slightly smaller, as you believe they were, then a slightly lower value than 2200uF would seem likely.
It should be noted that as a very general rule (meaning there are certainly exceptions), one can go with somewhat higher capacitance value aluminum electrolytic capacitors without harm, as their most common purpose is to store charge for sourcing high current when demanded and to help smoothen out voltage ripple on power rails. In such cases, larger values will generally do a better job, though above some value you just get diminishing returns and increased cost.
Also, without exception, one can always go with higher voltage rated caps for any given capacitance value, as that just adds a greater margin of safety (and often life) to the part.
That’s about all I can offer you for advice.
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1st off thank you for taking the time to reply such a long reply. Also not sure you notice but I did mention I (or you) can also see part of the voltage listed on the missing capacitors, which is a 0 implying 10v or 50v based on size and purpose there is no way these are higher voltage (aka 50v or higher) as they are too small to be 50v or higher, so I assume they are 10v which makes sense in that the slightly larger 2200uf’s are 16v. Sadly I cannot recall the project I took them out to repair was, most likely it was another PSU or a TV PSU (which typically use 10v or 16v caps)
I think you’re correct about it probably being a 10V cap.
Looking at the PCB image where the caps would sit, it looks like one of the two capacitor leads of C32 is tied directly to the purple lead coming out of the board, and next to that lead is the label “+5VSB” which is the typical name for the 5V standby power rail of an ATX power supply. A 10V cap would be well suited to be used on that power rail.
Oh wow good eye! I did not notice that! Thanks that does help narrow it down. (And wow I had almost decided to deleted this post earlier).
oh yes and to clarify I forgot to add this photo which did show the size difference. The dot is the same size but the 16v 2200uf caps are slightly wider
Since the missing caps are presumably from the same series and are probably rated for 10V rather than 16V, they will likely have a higher capacitance than the 16V ones for any given size. Since they are slightly narrower (don’t know about the height) they are probably fairly close in capacitance value to the 16V caps.
Based on my previously stated points about capacitor voltage and values in such applications (generally, going higher for one or both is fine), here’s a link to some of our higher quality caps to start narrowing down your options.
Start narrowing down options by selecting only the ones with the same lead-spacing. Then filter body diameter and height for those which fit the space.
From there, you can pick the capacitance and voltage you want, as well as the “Lifetime @ Temperature” and “Operating Temperature”, noting that for every 10°C lower that you actually operate the cap, the lifetime will double from that stated at the max temperature.
For instance, a cap rated for 2000 Hrs at 125°C will last at least 4000 Hrs at 115°C, 8000 Hrs at 105°C, etc. This means that a cap rated for 2000 Hrs at 125°C will almost certainly last longer than a cap rated for 4000 Hrs at 105°C.
Well this helps even more because I also noticed among my photos, was a repair I did on another PSU (that had bulging & just starting to leak 10v 3300uf caps). Upon seeing this I had a flashback that this might have been what I used these missing caps out of this PSU for in that PSU! And you’re help has really helped me narrow it down. Esp the tip about them being higher uf than the 2200’s. Here is a pic from that I can clearly see the other PSU caps have a 10 in the voltage print line and 33 in the uf print line… wow I think you helped me figure it out!
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