Please can somebody very kindly help identify the capacitors below and suggest the right class? - I think the last number is the voltage, the middle one is the farads, but don’t know what the first means.
I would like to replace with matching modern Nichicon or Rubicon and I’m not sure which is the equivalent since I can’t find the Datasheet anywhere and not sure of all the other information I should be take in consideration here.
87x 561 6.3
87e 561 6.3
87f 561 6.3
864e 101 16
87Ae 101 16
87Ce 101 16
873 271 16
87eh 561 6.3
87wh 561 6.3
87ee 101 16
843k 561 6.3
87Wk 271 16
I’ve also gave a Quick Look online and can’t find any 561uf 6.3, the closest match I found is PLS0J561MCO8, would this be correct?
Thanks in advance.
Hello, welcome to the Techforum! The last character for the capacitance looks to be a multiplier value, so the values you would need are 100, 270, and 560uF. Unfortunately I was unable to confirm what the first set of characters calls out for your parts, but using the example part number you gave I was able to provide this list of options from Nichicon that have the voltage and capacitance values you are looking for. There looks to be a selection of different sizes available so you will need to confirm the dimensions of your parts to find the closest option.
Thanks for confirming. Now I understand the value for the capacitance, so for example the ‘87He 100 10’ should be: 10uf 10v? is this correct? I believe the last 2 digits still remains the Voltage?.
This said do I need to worry about matching ESR/Leakage current or other values? since I could not find additional information I’m kind of lost.
I’m puzzled by the first series of numbers. I originally thought these were models, but can’t understand why the last letters change multiple times even if they are used for the same capacitance/voltage. For example the 864e/87Ae/87ce/87ee 101 16. Can they simply be different production lots?
I’ve uploaded some closeups pics of the current parts, and if you could reassure me that the series I’ve picked would be the best replacement I will go ahead and buy them, otherwise would you be kind to advise me on the best ones given the photos uploaded and the type of use on a PC motherboard?
From doing some digging around the web, such as here, it’s pretty certain that the caps are of the aluminum conductive polymer type, which is the type for which @Rob_Johnson gave you a link. The consensus is also that they are of Japanese origin, though I could not find anything stating from whom, specifically.
I was not able to ID the make or series based on your images, though perhaps someone else here could, as that “F” logo really ought to be identifiable. The characters next to/below the “F” are either just date/lot codes, or possibly a combination of series and date/lot codes.
I wouldn’t worry at all about matching leakage current, as that’s a pretty minor spec in such applications. As a general rule, using lower ESR caps is a good thing, though there are some cases where the ESR must be within some min and max range to maintain stability in the switching regulator circuits.
With these points in mind, here are my picks for each value. They are long life, high temperature rated parts for maximum reliability from Nichicon and Rubycon. Note that you need to verify size (diameter, height, and lead spacing) before ordering to guarantee fit.
If you cannot find one that matches your physical requirements, here’s a larger list of through-hole Aluminum Conductive Polymer caps including other high-quality brand options.
I missed your question on this. Yes, in the case of these parts, the parts marked “100” are 10uF 10V parts. I’m sure of this because they are almost certainly marked with the same format as the other values on your board. It is also common to list the actual capacitance directly (ie. 100 = 100uF), but it would not be common to mix the two marking styles in the same series of capacitor.
Here are links to 10uF Nichicon parts.
Thanks David, I really appreciate all the help and explanation both you and Rob provided, I found this community to be very supportive and welcoming.
I’m now reviewing measures against of the parts you suggested against the one I took with the caliber and given the ± tolerance of 0.5 they should be fine. I will take my time however to review all options.
I also don’t think these capacitors don’t need replacing but I prefer to do it regardless to extend life span.
Thanks again and have a great weekend.
Apologies in advance for this last question…when I thought I understood…I feel lost again…
Am I reading the values of the 2x caps in the photo below correctly as respectively 150uf 6v and 100uf 6v and hence these would be the correct replacements?
or would these be 1500uf 6v and 1000uf 6v? these are mounted on a Iomega Zip 100 USB drive.
I am not familiar with these markings at all. I know others will be watching this post. David will get the notification, but he is not working at this time. I am sorry. This one I can’t guess at. I would wait as we have other people monitor these forum posts if they are familiar with this marking. I looked at formats and I am not sure. I would hate to give you the wrong information.
These are both aluminum electrolytic caps rather than aluminum polymer types like your previous caps. In this case, the number you see is the actual value, so 1000uF and 1500uF. I’m pretty sure that they are both 6.3V rated, though “E” can sometimes represent 25V. In this case, I’m pretty sure that the “E” refers to a series code, though I don’t know what manufacturer or series these actually are. If the voltage plane they are on is 5V or less, then that would make the 6.3V rating that much more likely. However, there is no problem with going with a higher-voltage rated part, as that just gives an added safety margin. Your best bet is to actually measure the voltage across the caps in-circuit, so you know for sure.
Here’s a paired down list of parts of 1000uF and 1500uF caps which are rated for pretty long life, higher temperatures, and decent ripple current capability. First, eliminate all of the parts that are not rated somewhat above your rail voltage. Then look for all of the caps that match the diameter of your caps, so they will fit the same pads on your board. From there, pick the parts with the best specs which are not too tall to fit in the available space in you enclosure. In the case of standard aluminum electrolytic caps, it is less common to list ESR (equivalent series resistance) than for the aluminum polymer types, but they usually list ripple current. Higher ripple current generally correlates with lower ESR.
Thanks David and thanks also to Verna for all your attention.
I’ve reviewed the parts suggested and diameter and created a basket with all the parts. I will be checking 2 more items coming my way end of this week before making the order as I’m afraid I might need to abuse of your kind availability and knowledge for these 2 boards.
I will measure the voltage to the caps, is on a usb device so most likely it will be a 6.3 but will double check.
I find myself having to ask the expertise of the community as my shopping list has grown and grown.
Please can you help me identify the last few caps to order:
Thanks again and in advance.
Have a great day.
Thanks Verna, I’ve added all parts to the lists as per your lists.
I’m only confused on one of the parts suggested. Isn’t the 470uf 6.3v an aluminium polymer capacitor and not an aluminium electrolytic capacitor? And if right, would this part be okay: PLS0J471MDO1?
Asking this as it looks like the 470uf 6.3v you identified as an aluminium polymer capacitor but doesn’t like one. So that in the future I can try getting these right without having to bother the community, If I got the above wrong, which were the indicators?
I did not have any indication either way. So if you need a list of smd polymer caps here is the link: https://www.digikey.com/en/products/filter/aluminum-polymer-capacitors/69?s=N4IgjCBcoGwJxVAYygMwIYBsDOBTANCAPZQDaIALAAxwDMdIAuoQA4AuUIAymwE4CWAOwDmIAL6EAtACZEIFJD4BXAsTIgArEwkhJCaPKjLVJSOQiMxO2WZAsimAJ4ACJOhbOKAdipLUzmAA6WgA3bSA
You can review these options. I was just looking at parts by the descripiton. I am not even certain it is a poly now. Though either one would really not hurt the board. ESR is generally better with the polymer.